tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30504475708358826142024-03-12T18:09:15.693-07:00alexrwallace.com Because everyone else on the web seemed to be doing it!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.comBlogger61125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-88262612867582070792017-03-07T14:00:00.000-08:002017-03-07T14:00:11.237-08:00Fitbits new Alta HR activity tracker<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been a Fitbit user for years. I have an original flex and I can honestly say that considering its primary job is as a pedometer, I tend to use it very differently than its original intent. Its primary purpose in my case is as a silent alarm clock. I don't want to wake my family up with my phone or an alarm clock at way-too-early o'clock, so this little vibrating band has been a godsend. The thing is, other than that purpose, it's really the software and not the hardware that I use this for.<br />
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Sure the sleep monitor is kind of cool, but to be honestly I tend to find it out of whack. I tend to switch between totally active sleeper (think running in my sleep) to log to laying there without moving for hours while suffering from an absolute random bout of insomnia. Sometimes Fitbit picks this up, sometimes not, and honestly I can't say that I've looked at my sleep metrics much after the first couple of weeks.<br />
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I will say that the guilt trip I get from not wearing it for a couple of days or for spending a few days totally sedentary while working seems to be pretty good, especially with the weekly report. It does give me a little push to try and be active for the next week. Being able to look back and actually see which days I was active and which I wasn't is good. So is keeping track of my weight and other measurements.<br />
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The thing is... most of what I use this for is not the hardware... and there is good reason for that. The location on my wrist tends to interfere with lifting gloves or straps. I have had it get caught on the lip of my chalk bag and either drop into my chalk bag or tumble 40 feet almost hitting my belayer in the face.<br />
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Fundamentally thats the problem with my Fitbit flex though, its really good at measuring a couple of things and mostly for running, and not quite so good at measuring the activities that I do. Now to be fair I have no idea how you would measure reps on a leg press with a wrist worn device. Or how the same wrist worn device could ever hope to tell how my clean my movement was while I was climbing (though some kind of altimeter in there would be kinda neat to tell how far I had moved up and down over the course of a day).<br />
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Some of this looks to at least be changing with the Alta. Being able to track my heart rate is far more useful to me than number of steps. It will give me some visibility into when I'm ACTUALLY working out hard and when I'm giving it a half assed effort. I may get some metrics into how hard a route or boulder problem actually was for me.<br />
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The band design actually looks like it may be helpful too. Having a latching band versus the one on the flex should solve my catch and drop problem, I also may be able to wear it a little higher up on wrist to deal with lifting straps. Plus I still get all the awesome things I use my current Fitbit for.<br />
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I guess what I'm saying is, come on April, and just go ahead and take my money now!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-28098796168849542912017-03-07T08:42:00.002-08:002017-03-07T08:42:38.652-08:00Pissing off a candidate before you even talk to them<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I recently had the joy of hunting for a new job. Its not a new experience for me, quite frankly I've done it more often than I care to admit. I took the same tactics I always have in the past. Updating my resume, posting it out on some job boards, reaching out to my network and contacting some recruiters that I have worked with in the past. The thing is, during this most recent hunt I became aware of what seems to be a new tactic among some recruiters that quite frankly pisses me off.<br />
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I have a good resume, and a lot of experience with all the right buzz words for certain positions. In short to some recruiters I am a dream candidate, and in that respect I can understand why it is they are doing what they do... and that is call me TWO OR THREE TIMES IN A ROW.. or call me EVERY SINGLE DAY FOR THREE WEEKS STRAIGHT!!!<br />
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Allow me to explain why this is a problem. I have had a pet at the vet undergoing surgery. Im waiting for them to call. The thing is I get so many calls from recruiters EVEN WHEN I'M NOT ACTIVELY LOOKING that I CAN'T pick up my phone on the first call. EVER. My pet could be dying on the table and I have to look at my phone and ACTIVELY choose whether its worth the risk to answer the phone. I have a child that may or may not need to contact me from a strangers phone in case of an emergency... Guess what? same problem! What if my wife gets into an accident? Bank needs to get in touch with me? Any one of these scenarios!<br />
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Look, I get it, you guys are trying to make a living... But heres the thing, I used to be able to just assume that if I got one call from a number it was a recruiter, I'd listen to the message and then decide if I wanted to call them back. I mean hell that's why I have a phone... MY CONVENIENCE... not yours. If someone called me twice in a row I'd assume that person had a legitimate reason... NOT ANYMORE!<br />
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The most frustrating part of it is that I have had people call me like this, AND NOT EVEN KNOW MY NAME OR MY RESUME. I'm sorry, that's just lazy, and if you are doing such a shitty job recruiting me, you can be damn sure I'm not going to hire you to put my in front of a business... After all by agreeing to let you submit my resume, that is what I am doing!<br />
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So to summarize, stop calling people non stop. If they aren't into what your offering, they aren't into it. Calling me 30 times over the course of the week isn't going to change my mind. If I don't call you assume I'm not interested. I have 10000 things going on in my life and the reality is that my time is valuable. I am very choosy as to where that value goes, and in that respect try to create a relationship with your recruitee. I may not choose the position that you are trying to recruit for this time, but I am going to be in the market again at some point, and a good recruiter is worth their weight in gold. And for fucks sake know the name and resume of the candidate you are trying to contact. When you don't you just look like incompetent and useless.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-44199533271737817622016-07-12T08:25:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:06:34.847-08:00The lost practice of the belayYou walk up to the wall rope in hand, chatting to your climbing partner about your last climb. You talk about that move at the crux and how you just can't seem to quite pull the move. Your partner mentions a boulder problem at the gym that was just set that has the exact move. You're stoked! You can now practice the move and finally send your project! Your partner ties in gives you a quick nod, and begins to climb, and there you are at the base of the climb quietly holding the rope.<br /><br />Sound familiar? This is pretty much every single time most people climb with a partner. The belay is often viewed as a "necessary chore". One that most people do because they need to have a climbing partner. The thing is that most people seem to ignore is just how important the belay is.<br /><br />Everyone has a story about that "bad belayer". You know the one that gave you too much slack, or not enough, or almost dropped you (or did drop you). The thing is no one takes the time to look back at themselves and their belay technique. In everyones own mind their belay is fine. They know what they're doing. The thing is how often do you actively practice belaying? I don't mean how many times have you given a belay. I mean how many time have you actively taken the time to focus your effort on what it is your doing? To notice things you can do better. To read about belay technique and work on improving it? When was the last time you adjusted your belay technique to something that might work a little better? And I'm not talking about changing from an <a href="http://amzn.to/29GcFEG">ATC</a> to a <a href="http://amzn.to/29yNe48">GriGri</a>, that sure as hell doesn't count.<br /><br />Just last week a professional climber decked from 45 feet in a gym while on a <a href="http://amzn.to/29yNe48">GriGri</a> with someone who had been belaying her forever! From every logical angle THIS SHOULDN'T HAVE HAPPENED! This is a professional climber! This was her main belaying partner for YEARS! There was no equipment failure. This was purely on the belayer, and it wasn't lack of experience with the climber, lack of experience belaying, fundamentally it was not practicing belaying.<br /><br />When asked if you know how to belay most people will respond with "yea, I can belay". That's like responding to "Can you climb?" with "Yea i can climb". What does that mean? You know what you can do when you climb. You know where your weaknesses are. You know if you are a 5.6 climber or a 5.15 climber. You probably have a list of things you want to work on in your climb technique or strengths. Have you ever thought about how to give a better dynamic catch? Do you even know what that really means? Do you know how to give one to a climber half your weight? What about twice your weight? Can you lead belay with an <a href="http://amzn.to/29GcFEG">ATC</a> or a <a href="http://amzn.to/29yNe48">GriGri</a> or an <a href="http://amzn.to/2a5XpiB">MegaJul</a>? Do you understand how each device works? Have you studied the different techniques of belaying with each device and the pros and cons of each technique? Do you change devices when you're gym climbing so you can keep your technique clean no matter what device you are using? Do you know how to belay during sport or trad?<br /><br />Belaying is much much more that just holding the end of the rope. You are responsible for the life of the other end. Treating it so cavalierly is not just stupid its dangerous not to mention selfish. The person on the pointy end is trusting you with their lives. They want to focus on the climb and not have a lingering concern about if they are going to get caught or how hard that catch will be. So be a better all around climber. Practice your Belay.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-4499095192135199692016-05-27T09:14:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:06:34.916-08:00Mind Trick: I can do it for "X"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikYQCKJGnplkLSNJqWS91Nvi6hADVvtCrNeNAAGJtz4bf-k4g87GBSlhPMRe95OdnMV5gxBMs8OxvqXvU-ZpYUv75BxWu8NiBa4T3JuxTsMzsQM30ziLuxRNxP9Wl95i6ua1kmn0D_5Bo/s1600/images+%25281%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikYQCKJGnplkLSNJqWS91Nvi6hADVvtCrNeNAAGJtz4bf-k4g87GBSlhPMRe95OdnMV5gxBMs8OxvqXvU-ZpYUv75BxWu8NiBa4T3JuxTsMzsQM30ziLuxRNxP9Wl95i6ua1kmn0D_5Bo/s1600/images+%25281%2529.jpeg" /></a></div><br />I REALLY used to dislike cardio. I mean I had a serious disdain for the whole activity, the intense sweat, the shortness of breath, the constant monotony of being on a machine. I tried to take it outside, and run, but I was big, the concrete pavement hurt my knees and I live in the Atlanta Metro area. The Atlanta Metro area has some SERIOUS air quality issues. Running outside at the wrong time made me feel like I had been sucking on a tail pipe. So I stuck to indoor equipment. The thing is most of the time I was ready to give up after about five minutes. That's when I discovered this little gem of a mind trick.<br /><br />I realized that every time I got on a piece of cardio equipment (usually a treadmill), I'd get to about 3 minutes and 30 seconds and want to get off. My head would be hurting, my knees began to whine, I was out of breath, the sweat started pouring from my brow, and my heart felt like it was going to explode out of my chest. In my head the cursing would begin. I would just tough it out, call myself a wuss. You know the typical macho crap that you see on all those workout posters. When I reached about 7 minutes miraculously my head would be clear, my knees didn't hurt, my heart and breath evened out and the sweat only bothered me a little.<br /><br />Now usually I'd only last another 7 minutes from that point and then cool down (I was almost 300 pounds at the time...), but I figured out something. If I could get past the initial 5-6 minutes I could do my cardio! I further went down the road of, its only 5 minutes! That's not so much! Anyone can do 5 minutes that's not so bad!<br /><br />Fast forward 10 years (or so) and I still use this trick today! I've run a half marathon using this trick. In fact I used it this morning! I was 45 minutes and 6 miles in to a run on the treadmill. I didn't want to do anymore. I was tired, and I could already taste my after workout refuel. But I said to myself, come on Alex, just do five more minutes. It's five minutes, that's not too much longer! I ended up doing that a few more times pushing myself to 9.5 miles over and hour and ten minutes! Maybe that's not super quick, but believe me its one of my better times!<br /><br />The best part about the trick is that it doesn't just work for exercise it works for your diet and climbing too! I did a juice fast a year or so ago. I used the same trick with the mindset of "It's only a week. I can do this for a week! It's not that long!", and you know what? It wasn't! I ended up doing it for two! I've used the same trick when sending my first 5.12. I was pumped out of my mind and wanting to yell take down to my belayer. I told myself to just try to make it to the next bolt. Then to the next rest. Next thing I knew I was two moves (or one giant lunge in my case) from the anchors. So if you're dragging don't feel like exercising, sticking to your diet or just struggling up a route, just break it down to a tiny time frame. It will make it seem much more reachable and much less harsh.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-30180701232397389612016-05-13T07:18:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:06:34.942-08:00On finding your passion<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIKmGzW7meCCF3_OeeVcRiDV2Xp-a8yb2gQ7FL2veiVuEHp7nJsEH5hPuk4areYQmzh-9MQuSKpeFf9MYdhvr2G1N5ztQuuEnDtW4U07BabMUA8MdMDZ04pGh_TFAFfcvoEVJGNhPoLAI/s640/blogger-image--529772285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIKmGzW7meCCF3_OeeVcRiDV2Xp-a8yb2gQ7FL2veiVuEHp7nJsEH5hPuk4areYQmzh-9MQuSKpeFf9MYdhvr2G1N5ztQuuEnDtW4U07BabMUA8MdMDZ04pGh_TFAFfcvoEVJGNhPoLAI/s640/blogger-image--529772285.jpg" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div>I didn't come to climbing by the normal routes. I wasn't a child who grew up with outdoorsy parents. I wasn't enrolled at the local climbing gym to burn off extra energy. In fact I would go as far as to say that as a child I was the antithesis of an athlete. I went to college in Florida where the closest thing to a mountain is a sand dune between you and the beach and in total honesty I came out of college tipping the scales at a whopping 320 lbs (That's another story altogether...). The reality is my relationship with climbing didn't even start until I was in my thirties had two kids and had dropped 160 lbs.<br /><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VBokHSbuCB63ZkmRImPJMISbpZSqpi3JdIcDZaha-VXecF7AtnV1V8-aUhhb0FOLRfrzr-jVN6Y451iKlavUr0Zf480OrzpYejss-LB8G6qV73mkNd92nwWamIeY3J5x9_q1js52VnU/s640/blogger-image--2046130828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VBokHSbuCB63ZkmRImPJMISbpZSqpi3JdIcDZaha-VXecF7AtnV1V8-aUhhb0FOLRfrzr-jVN6Y451iKlavUr0Zf480OrzpYejss-LB8G6qV73mkNd92nwWamIeY3J5x9_q1js52VnU/s640/blogger-image--2046130828.jpg" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The funny thing is it was actually my youngest that got me started. At age four he was a little bundle of energy. One day at <a href="https://www.lifetimefitness.com/en.html">Lifetime Fitness</a> he noticed the rock wall. Never a shy one he went running in. I may have been slightly misleading about his age to the staff there but he got on the wall, and of course like all kids wanted his daddy to try too.</div><div><br /></div><div>The thing is I have a small issue with that whole heights thing. I'm even worse when it comes to descending. At that point in my life, elevators bothered me. Still I gave it a shot. For the next few weeks I'd keep coming in with little man. I started doing a circuit setup there. Every day I'd get a little further. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3raB2NnsKcawfik2eOYd57C1J68aFeyfvcyTREnn3rTtHOfKfPKGqXLT8f-SsW8XRqjjp610Jf-R8Tv0KCo8KR2mVnrEYqzHtN-bOrexH8vOm3VXCRlwYNAUXQoWA2_NI7L5Tz_znc9I/s640/blogger-image-311353631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3raB2NnsKcawfik2eOYd57C1J68aFeyfvcyTREnn3rTtHOfKfPKGqXLT8f-SsW8XRqjjp610Jf-R8Tv0KCo8KR2mVnrEYqzHtN-bOrexH8vOm3VXCRlwYNAUXQoWA2_NI7L5Tz_znc9I/s640/blogger-image-311353631.jpg" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>One day the director of the wall approached me and pretty much dragged me onto a rope. In that moment I decided that it was time I faced my fear of heights. Drawing on my geek heritage I recited the mantra against fear from <a href="http://amzn.to/1Nt76t1">Dune</a>, and up I went.</div><div><br /></div><div>I haven't stopped climbing since. Sure I probably spend more time in a gym than outside climbing (being a father and working a job that occasionally demands 100+ hour weeks pretty much killed the ability to go on week long dirtbag excursions). But that's not the important thing. </div><div><br /></div><div>The important thing is I found my passion and I'm acting on it. I make the time for it, even if that time involves waking up at 5 am after going to bed at midnight and waking up twice to deal with the kids. Am I ever going to become a legendary climber? Probably not. Am I going to love every minute up on that walk? Your damn right I am.</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-21064257576379573302016-05-02T13:13:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:06:34.968-08:005 things to keep track of in your Climbing Log.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Vuiha1zOz-opi2g95E-sdZ6YUBlS_FmJGjwypi3ZuuFraPQL0-E3APen_4NO1AryguC-UPA96PLVRIgSB6xtdjoR2G1NSRIwnJtbyTUQGU5nM_EekidAxkkSut8BbIeYT-Wf47y_ziA/s1600/download.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Vuiha1zOz-opi2g95E-sdZ6YUBlS_FmJGjwypi3ZuuFraPQL0-E3APen_4NO1AryguC-UPA96PLVRIgSB6xtdjoR2G1NSRIwnJtbyTUQGU5nM_EekidAxkkSut8BbIeYT-Wf47y_ziA/s1600/download.jpeg" /></a></div><br />You arrive at the climbing gym ready to get a little practise in. Your climbing partner arrives at exactly the same time you did. Fantastic the day is starting well! The gym looks fairly empty, so no lines for routes or problems. This day just gets better and better!<br /><br />You grab your shoes and get situated under a route when your partner comes over. "Dude, didn't we do this route last week?" Looking up the route does look somewhat familiar but you hadn't slept much last week, and your memory of what the hell you actually climbed (or even that you climbed) last week is hazy at best. You remember flailing on a bunch of routes, and crushing one of them, but you don't remember which ones were which. You shrug at your partner and say "its just a warm up" and pull onto the wall.<br /><br />By the time you and your partner finish the climb, a rain storm has rolled in and the gym has gotten crowded. The lines for routes are problems are 3 deep. You both crushed the route, and now you do remember this being the route that you totally crushed last session.<br /><br />In a previous <a href="http://www.climbgeek.com/2016/04/4-reasons-to-use-workout-log.html">post</a> I talked about the importance of actually keeping a log for climbing. Climbing like any training has benchmarks and milestones and ultimately, like any training, can be much improved with data. By keeping accurate measurements in your climbing log you can identify training practise, route setters, and body compositions that work, those that didn't, and areas of improvement. The key factor though is what the hell should you actually keep in the damn thing.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNTiEho0FyXIhx2rx1Li0gsCM8sovP1715wjVTkikrfPEr_ASTIl_Aoo48EAYBafXiVYEE3Uo_AeQJwhLbMQhdzaFu5rKylIeEA3b7dDIh2RB4k4J2c3tV1FJpEWnTLzHJBdlZtntG_V8/s1600/clock-159881_640.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNTiEho0FyXIhx2rx1Li0gsCM8sovP1715wjVTkikrfPEr_ASTIl_Aoo48EAYBafXiVYEE3Uo_AeQJwhLbMQhdzaFu5rKylIeEA3b7dDIh2RB4k4J2c3tV1FJpEWnTLzHJBdlZtntG_V8/s320/clock-159881_640.png" width="310" /></a></div><br /><b>1. Date/Time and Duration</b><br />No brainer right? Being able to link up calendar days to your climbing allows you see when you did what, and how long you are training on any given day. All this can then roll up to weeks months and years (hopefully decades), which gives you an even better idea of your progress and maybe even plan to adjust training schedules and volume around yearly events (like holidays).<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-zSqfSmN4qw6hAOZPnb65lkH_vp-I6wq8DLl12bTklpVH6lVxHD6-SfM9UGby1RaBeDGjEXxxzPM6o5vBBhEbocCO1iVLnE7IZ0YOMsdvpBkKAUO7vDvZQyfXLh5p21mYRyfP8Tn2ts/s1600/running+to+lose+weight+460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-zSqfSmN4qw6hAOZPnb65lkH_vp-I6wq8DLl12bTklpVH6lVxHD6-SfM9UGby1RaBeDGjEXxxzPM6o5vBBhEbocCO1iVLnE7IZ0YOMsdvpBkKAUO7vDvZQyfXLh5p21mYRyfP8Tn2ts/s320/running+to+lose+weight+460.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><b>2. Personal Measurables</b><br />Lets be honest. Performance in climbing is very much tied to power to weight ratio. Meaning body weight, body fat percentage etc all matter. The thing is though, everyone is different. Some people climb better when they're carrying extra weight in muscle. Some people don't. And some of us just need a helpful reminder not to the donuts brought into the office. Keeping a log of this can help you figure out your optimum body composition.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMwndu-EH9Vn73ZJxhnrBov5xPIE6X3o518yLcwNGT7M46yZhnI2JkMyQXj7xjpqoBxdQTemxsHdUfNkupaSiw4oyJ_PHVJ3CuS2Yj8tuOORnSB9vc2YvELjMKUvrCjQB6ukr-jMlLva4/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMwndu-EH9Vn73ZJxhnrBov5xPIE6X3o518yLcwNGT7M46yZhnI2JkMyQXj7xjpqoBxdQTemxsHdUfNkupaSiw4oyJ_PHVJ3CuS2Yj8tuOORnSB9vc2YvELjMKUvrCjQB6ukr-jMlLva4/s1600/images.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><b>3. What the hell are you doing?</b><br />Did you lift weights? Do 4x4s? Campus? Fingerboard? Run? In the case of weights keep track of exercises, sets, repetitions, and load. With running, how far? how fast? What did your campus workout look like? There are a metric ton of <a href="http://amzn.to/1Z48Edy">fingerboard</a> workouts out there, did you do one of those?<br /><br />Those ones are the easy ones to document. What about routes and problems? Well lets discuss that next, because even if you aren't in training mode, and are outside you should write that down.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhIkT0XbSmZvDwiJ_LSG07zK2vPRqqr80x9KJPDknwbiJdTQ20MiZqAgmYUT119qjA3cceGCf_dAwsS3YwSzZqIsUpxTGbB9aCtxIJ8mRKcvs0U4tlttYZB-sXzKw3qEF5bcrUHs6PRMw/s1600/SBB_Toomas_routesetting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhIkT0XbSmZvDwiJ_LSG07zK2vPRqqr80x9KJPDknwbiJdTQ20MiZqAgmYUT119qjA3cceGCf_dAwsS3YwSzZqIsUpxTGbB9aCtxIJ8mRKcvs0U4tlttYZB-sXzKw3qEF5bcrUHs6PRMw/s320/SBB_Toomas_routesetting.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><b>4. Route/Problem beta/info</b><br />Lets face it not all grading is equal. What one person feels is V3 can feel like a V6 for someone else based on the problem type and strengths of the climber. So just writing the grade of the problem is useless. Instead look at writing down the Crag/Gym, Name (if available for nothing other than a unique identifier in the gym. failing the name some other unique identifier, "the pink one in the corner"), Route Setter (if available), angle of the route, types of moves and holds, type of problem (technical, powerful, sustained etc.), did you flash it? Redpoint it? 3 tries? 10? Only got half way before slipping off that damned sloper for the 17000th time? How long did it take? Lead, or Top Rope? Any tweaks to your body during the climb?<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLT5XuBODqkJzQLtgjeIhkc-rkDfO1juO6ol15vv_CZWHaudcMGu4F3x-faNJNNBf-cJBOlp-n2hpFxiO3266ikewIgalW5ipJxaAaEAx6nRMqnNCfet7kHjQdNWQxG2jflchqRbB8Bk/s1600/140317095925_1_900x600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLT5XuBODqkJzQLtgjeIhkc-rkDfO1juO6ol15vv_CZWHaudcMGu4F3x-faNJNNBf-cJBOlp-n2hpFxiO3266ikewIgalW5ipJxaAaEAx6nRMqnNCfet7kHjQdNWQxG2jflchqRbB8Bk/s320/140317095925_1_900x600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><b>5. How did you feel that day</b><br />This sounds all touchy feely, but it is absolutely critical. Climbing is as much mental as it is physical. There will be days when you can walk up to a wall tie into the pointy end and fly up the most sketchy looking route. Other days you're head is filled with other crap, and getting clear on the wall is an exercise in futility. Sometimes your body just doesn't feel right.<br /><br />Keeping track of what you felt during and after the climb helps you figure out other things you need to work on. Did you take 4 times on a climb because you got gripped with fear above the bolt? Did your hamstrings feel super tight when you went for those heel hooks all day? Is your tendonitis flaring up? Incorporating mind and body awareness lets you uncover things that may be holding you back and possibly help you identify days where you should probably take an extra rest.<br /><br /><b>Wrap up</b><br />After reading this I'm sure you are thinking that this is a whole lot of data to keep, and your right, it is. One of these days I might get around to actually writing an app to keep all this stuff in it, the thing is usually I'd rather spend my time climbing. Fortunately there's an <a href="https://igg.me/at/whipper/x/13974881">indiegogo</a> campaign for a climb tracker called <a href="https://thewhipper.com/">The Whipper</a> that starts on May 3rd 2016. That will begin to track some of this. There are other apps like <a href="https://www.myfitnesspal.com/">MyFitnessPal</a> for body composition, food, water intake and exercises. Keeping all and looking back will help give you a good picture of where you are and plan how to get where you want to be.<br /><b><br /></b>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-53598038120590688862016-04-27T07:18:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:06:35.018-08:004 Reasons to Use a Workout Log<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Rylvz3YO19lckcBr-gqJoxMxgPS2niGL5tRO_XG4APfuYmWR6h9qWRKCI1WmtDv4HKHOUFBNEH0lDqrT6lEDW22MSCeo_SQUgUxeqq2voYQBitZHlTCFlWan7ofuZHa0M0BzcD0UqC0/s1600/20110327164530-natural-bouldering-around-london.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Rylvz3YO19lckcBr-gqJoxMxgPS2niGL5tRO_XG4APfuYmWR6h9qWRKCI1WmtDv4HKHOUFBNEH0lDqrT6lEDW22MSCeo_SQUgUxeqq2voYQBitZHlTCFlWan7ofuZHa0M0BzcD0UqC0/s320/20110327164530-natural-bouldering-around-london.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br />You walk into the climbing gym or up to your local crag ready to get after it. You've got your properly broken in redpointing <a href="http://amzn.to/1Te1XRN">shoes</a> for PR attempts, your <a href="http://amzn.to/1Uhho0D">chalk bag</a> or <a href="http://amzn.to/1ri3YpQ">bucket</a> filled with your favorite <a href="http://amzn.to/1ri4ggo">chalk</a>, your <a href="http://amzn.to/1NTx8An">harness</a>, trad rack, and or handy <a href="http://amzn.to/1T4Nibc">bouldering pad </a>at the ready.<br /><br />You and your climbing partner go through all your pre warm-up routines. Dynamic stretches, a quick traverse, maybe a quick session on a system board, and finally on to your warm up routes or problems.<br /><br />Everything feels right. You are ready to go at your limit. You look around and identify problems and routes at your level.<br /><br />A few hours later you leave the gym in one of three states: Elated with a phenomenal climbing session where everything just felt right, frustrated as to why you couldn't send those "easy" routes and why aren't you climbing a harder grade, or just meh it was an ok session.<br /><br />The thing is, all these states can be a lie, and you have no reason of truly knowing if you actually had a good session beyond just your "feelings". If you're serious about climbing and training you need to keep a workout log.<br /><br />A workout log can reveal patterns of development, weight change, mental attitude or deficiencies, overtraining and plateaus far clearer than even the best coach or climbing partner. Every climbing session, warmup, supplemental exercise, yoga class, run, route, and problem should be recorded and here's why:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjiF0a958ez3x5aeip8ViEy4uXSvIgkkCMBwBKYOaFUiz2V9QBxlUMdIgW-P-yv4bhwiMRCdTgbSxy9E6NUJh_eZJNkAsFg3QbUxKt63J1ujdJG4NmLK0jHwaCfsUpNtTfYg2NY2gxIs/s1600/i-jZ796sR-L1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjiF0a958ez3x5aeip8ViEy4uXSvIgkkCMBwBKYOaFUiz2V9QBxlUMdIgW-P-yv4bhwiMRCdTgbSxy9E6NUJh_eZJNkAsFg3QbUxKt63J1ujdJG4NmLK0jHwaCfsUpNtTfYg2NY2gxIs/s320/i-jZ796sR-L1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><b>1. An Accurate Record</b><br />A workout log is an actual record of what you really did. Think you can trust your memory? How many boulder problems did you do last session? How long did you spend on the campus board? Did you spend more time on the hang board in that mono than you did on the previous session? I would put money on the fact that you can't reliably answer that question and that you may have plateaued and not even realized it.<br /><br />It's easy to remember the big milestones: your first 5.whatever, the first time you did the V-Next, but remembering the little things like how many moves and how long your last 4x4 session took, the log can take care of that.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt6mVduxgvT_fxJa4fNFfAcjlycCCxjEA3LbmPOHMVKB_TCxkRSmvxxmRehRbaSH8jILc9AmjdjIRbaVBQeuUg7wdoAEOLOmGrrbLzxNiyKvnY-UdGuAISY6SpgUefy_8ZO4DBFxvGhyQ/s1600/graph-up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt6mVduxgvT_fxJa4fNFfAcjlycCCxjEA3LbmPOHMVKB_TCxkRSmvxxmRehRbaSH8jILc9AmjdjIRbaVBQeuUg7wdoAEOLOmGrrbLzxNiyKvnY-UdGuAISY6SpgUefy_8ZO4DBFxvGhyQ/s320/graph-up.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><b>2. A Roadmap to Success</b><br />If you have a time where things just seem to flow for you. Where all of a sudden you are crushing it session after session and you shoot up a grade or two in a matter of months, that there's a strong chance you've found a training regimen that works for you.<br /><br />Its not a guarantee that it will work forever, and it will always need tweaking, but you can bet that it will probably work better than trying to mimic <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADSkNXjOg5Y">Adam Ondra's workout routine</a>.<br /><br />And what if you aren't getting anywhere. Well the good thing is you can identify that and learn something from that experience as well. Not getting anywhere in your training helps you identify things that you may not need to work on, and helps you push towards things that will help you become a better climber. While it sucks to bust your ass over and over again during training and not make any progress, at least you can identify things you are already good at an refocus your training towards your weaknesses.<br /><br />It also helps identify when and how you climb best. Does a certain weight seem to lead to the best climbing for you? Do you climb better at night or in the morning.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgigidmgdmg3O_9JQB8rMYfEuBB59Z9OPYQ1o7NRQ30_0ZETn_ywFaVKHW00N-j8dpCqMoGybvGdFN4iWF5PdUm1bJXAhQ68I9o4laN0LTn9Niwk8QsgpeevayAuA9lll0zTqjQEWqAa6o/s1600/what-is-motivation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgigidmgdmg3O_9JQB8rMYfEuBB59Z9OPYQ1o7NRQ30_0ZETn_ywFaVKHW00N-j8dpCqMoGybvGdFN4iWF5PdUm1bJXAhQ68I9o4laN0LTn9Niwk8QsgpeevayAuA9lll0zTqjQEWqAa6o/s320/what-is-motivation.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><b>3. Motivation</b><br />A workout log can be very motivating. It is easy and quick to look back and see where you were weeks, months and years ago and that your redpoint attempt then is your warm up route now.<br /><br />This is what makes the workout log rewarding. Having the data in your back pocket about your progress is an invaluable tool to help build long term confidence and self esteem. When you can look back and see that over time you have made a huge jumps in relation to where you were, it makes the work seem worth it.<br /><br />When you realize that you started off weak at something and now it is a point of strength through nothing but pure hard work, its powerful and motivating feeling.<br /><br /><b>4. Injury Prevention</b><br />Workout logs inevitably can predict and possibly even prevent injuries. When you get hurt you can go back through your log and see what the hell you've been doing. Not enough rest days? Too much volume? Pushing to far to fast? Weigh to much? Maybe you just haven't been getting enough sleep and you try stupid stuff when you're tired.<br /><br />Once you can pinpoint what it is that seems to lead to your inevitable injury, you can hopefully plan to stop doing it so you don't have to deal with it in the future.<br /><br /><br /><b>Wrap up</b><br />Athletes from other sports have been documenting their training for decades. If you are serious about training for your peak its important to maximize the use of your time. The less wasted time you spend repeating something thats not working for you the more time you have to try projects you never dreamed were possible. If you haven't been keeping track of your climbing progress, its never too late to start.<br /><br />Now as far as what to track, and how to track it, look out for an upcoming blog post about what to keep in a log.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-6975226899345006112016-04-26T13:56:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:06:35.038-08:00Gear to watch: The Whipper<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNPMHyWWO4LsF1mlIWnC3sWeWB_hfMWhQoir9-vH1eoQen7H1lHJqW69BPaiuJUxJeZ_Ms7raT_frTO3sEPHZD2JjOq4H3zlIfMv3_6hRMhTd3Awc2Nf5qvD_uRo-RuXnSMrEpdVhpHM/s1600/Whipper-Flyer.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNPMHyWWO4LsF1mlIWnC3sWeWB_hfMWhQoir9-vH1eoQen7H1lHJqW69BPaiuJUxJeZ_Ms7raT_frTO3sEPHZD2JjOq4H3zlIfMv3_6hRMhTd3Awc2Nf5qvD_uRo-RuXnSMrEpdVhpHM/s320/Whipper-Flyer.png" width="320" /></a></div>Ever watch or see someone training for marathon, triathlon or bike race? Do you get jealous of their <a href="http://amzn.to/1T2RXdZ">heart rate monitors</a>, <a href="http://amzn.to/1NQdlle">GPS devices</a> and all the neat little training tools that they have for their passion? Ever since I got into climbing the one thing that I've been looking for is some way to measure my progress. I mean sure, I can write down that I onsited that new purple route in the corner of the gym. Or that I managed to nail that boulder problem in 3 tries out at the <a href="https://www.mountainproject.com/v/horse-pens-40/106094862">HP 40</a>, but what does that really tell me, and how does that help me? Thankfully someone has finally heard the pleas of data needy climbers (aka me), introducing <a href="https://thewhipper.com/">The Whipper</a>!<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6WDlH-0nQLD7pN_hOwk2jT09lGlYWkJbpqgsPZcqg3u3_hZu0bGpHuNbhOVF2U33lGBwsbhhBogf7uRy-xEwdFanfKuVBdoUg7FebzfUmGEIV4YzK3Ad8X4YN90cOCekKXp5H1X2XIw/s1600/Whipper-Hero.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6WDlH-0nQLD7pN_hOwk2jT09lGlYWkJbpqgsPZcqg3u3_hZu0bGpHuNbhOVF2U33lGBwsbhhBogf7uRy-xEwdFanfKuVBdoUg7FebzfUmGEIV4YzK3Ad8X4YN90cOCekKXp5H1X2XIw/s320/Whipper-Hero.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The whipper is a durable, lightweight, unobtrusive tracker made specifically for climbers by climbers! Just set up the app on your phone, clip it to your harness and let the Whipper do the rest! The Whipper can measure vertical foot gain, incline, pace, effort level and altitude and more. When your done with your climb, the clip will happily sync all this data to your phone via bluetooth. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijf4oKjRdmxGgqdh9dEuc2IvKl6x-hB2AYBPd-4pmyc_AdHI8KMs_TtdjRpaQ5gp6UlTH9msvXSVeBhHhVVQDzpBbih2ZXb0U5c1g9068mSZLEKyk_nvlLEdT-f8BmqXVH3gOSmnDgFEk/s1600/Whipper-Data.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijf4oKjRdmxGgqdh9dEuc2IvKl6x-hB2AYBPd-4pmyc_AdHI8KMs_TtdjRpaQ5gp6UlTH9msvXSVeBhHhVVQDzpBbih2ZXb0U5c1g9068mSZLEKyk_nvlLEdT-f8BmqXVH3gOSmnDgFEk/s320/Whipper-Data.png" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As if getting your metrics wasn't cool enough, the partnering app is adding a whole new set of helpful features. The smart coach feature provides advice based on your performance, a number of training modes, and supplemental exercises to help you reach the next level in your climbing. It also has a range of social tools to help you challenge friends, find new climbing partners, track team progress and the Whipper team is even donating $1 to AccessFund for every 1000 feet climbed! Did you need more motivation?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9USZSwGovgx8nM76dFe208_pJ_v_OmCWsUCb29-4aUE8Ts4qpgGbTNz_yGcUUARPExxlrzMkb-G8mtMb1UccxLUXdPPCoii6qhvXpiii8JaVSTNzfKUW6nIpWhmFQDAlOoYR1VTApUzQ/s1600/Whipper-Coach.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9USZSwGovgx8nM76dFe208_pJ_v_OmCWsUCb29-4aUE8Ts4qpgGbTNz_yGcUUARPExxlrzMkb-G8mtMb1UccxLUXdPPCoii6qhvXpiii8JaVSTNzfKUW6nIpWhmFQDAlOoYR1VTApUzQ/s320/Whipper-Coach.png" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So time to get excited! A better way to train for climbs is coming. Earn money for AccessFund, get some coaching, track your training! Watch your gains and maximize your training and climbing potential. <a href="https://thewhipper.com/">The Whipper </a>is coming to <a href="https://igg.me/at/whipper/x/13974881">Indigogo</a> on May 3rd 2016, and the device will hit shelves on Q4 2016. Check back with this blog for further updates, or follow me in <a href="https://www.instagram.com/climbgeek/">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://twitter.com/climb_geek/">Twitter</a> or <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbgeek">Facebook</a> for updates as I will be keeping a close eye on this!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-63131343634765536572016-04-18T10:33:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:06:35.107-08:00Five ways to get better without training<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.rockandice.com/Article-Images/News-Photos/Sept-2015/training_220_full.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.rockandice.com/Article-Images/News-Photos/Sept-2015/training_220_full.png" height="320" width="190" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />This article by Neil Gresham has a slightly misleading title. Most climbers emphasize training as, well, actual training time on the wall. The reality is there is a lot of improvement that can happen OFF the wall.<br /><div><br /></div><div>It's important for recognize your weaknesses when you are climbing. Every time you fall is a new lesson for you to learn and a new opportunity to check I with where you are versus where you want to be. Don't get caught up on the rush to push grades as you will just ingrain bad habits that you will just later have to unlearn.</div><div><br /></div><div>Use the above lessons to set small goals for yourself to help focus. Make sure you are working on good technique. Don't pay attention to the grade level as grades are more of a suggestion than an actual level. Sure they sound good but what do they really mean? Finally make sure you are working on the mental aspects of climbing. It's amazing how mental climbing is.</div><div><br /></div><div>To read the full <a href="http://www.rockandice.com/">Rock and Ice</a> article, click <a href="http://www.rockandice.com/rock-climbing-training/five-ways-to-get-better-without-training">here</a>. </div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-86762450212081373202016-04-13T06:44:00.000-07:002017-03-09T08:06:26.774-08:00Petzl Freino Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR6SDaSEna0wIMAUi8kwh8hcGcn7mlyBVG9lL2FU8dIJfmE9LLVmU_TFJO2NLt0wvnMyCcNdtPOp49ui46G34jx7eQLpatzEIT3n4VnJg4KgG8GIN95VBUHtig_UaJT6UP0QcDdisl0gaa/s1600/M42-FREINO_LowRes.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR6SDaSEna0wIMAUi8kwh8hcGcn7mlyBVG9lL2FU8dIJfmE9LLVmU_TFJO2NLt0wvnMyCcNdtPOp49ui46G34jx7eQLpatzEIT3n4VnJg4KgG8GIN95VBUHtig_UaJT6UP0QcDdisl0gaa/s320/M42-FREINO_LowRes.jpeg" width="262" /></a></div>
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Do you own a Petzl GriGri? Do you often belay someone heavier than you? Does it annoy you (or at least bother your safety self) when your Grigri cross loads while lead belaying? Do you seriously dislike the smell of burning flesh as you lower your partner?<br />
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Then why do you not own one of these fantastic devices?!? <a href="https://www.petzl.com/">Petzl</a> has gone and created a belay carabiner that eliminates cross loading for the GriGri while at the same time increasing the friction to help with lowering!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Sj_TKxpxAL_DPdxTxPJvPGZgZef_uT9l0MCbNNw32pMul9IHWavgf9Ur29XKBRIBn4tZE2lr7B3skKpOqwp4eeGQ3x3WD0O10qN9OrLaPbN6FGXXubexysNv5zzryBvSrV6OyMd7CAk1/s1600/D14_R_GRIGRI_focus_with_M42_FREINO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Sj_TKxpxAL_DPdxTxPJvPGZgZef_uT9l0MCbNNw32pMul9IHWavgf9Ur29XKBRIBn4tZE2lr7B3skKpOqwp4eeGQ3x3WD0O10qN9OrLaPbN6FGXXubexysNv5zzryBvSrV6OyMd7CAk1/s320/D14_R_GRIGRI_focus_with_M42_FREINO.jpg" width="192" /></a></div>
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How do they handle this piece of magic? By adding a second wire gate carabiner onto the backside of the main auto locker of course! Running a rope through this second gate prior to lowering your partner not only forces the rope over the correct path of the GriGri, but also allows you to add friction on the rope and have more control of speed during lowering.<br />
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Needless to say, I've had this thing for two days and I love it. It stays out of the way when I don't need it, and is right there when I do. It's replaced my old auto locking carabiner and I'm really glad I shelled out the cash for it. I haven't had any more issues cross loading like I used to, and it keeps the GriGri right where it should be.<br />
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So what are you waiting for? You can buy a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Freino-Twist-Lock-Carabiner/dp/B000T29QFE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&keywords=petzl%20freino&qid=1460333737&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=alexrwallacec-20&linkId=23584fb3cb2c7bf3d4b7c3aba338f367">Petzl Freino from Amazon</a> with this link! Don't have a GriGri? Buy one of those here <a href="http://amzn.to/1UTVYaR">Petzl GriGri from Amazon</a>.<br />
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Want me to do more reviews on gear? Leave a comment on what gear you'd like me to review. Like this review? Share it on Facebook! Follow me on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/alexrwallace">Facebook</a>, on <a href="https://twitter.com/alexrwallace">Twitter</a>, and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/alexrwallace/">Instagram</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-30309932854417630962014-07-27T09:21:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:12:48.504-08:00Thinking of the Environment with your Diet and ExerciseI came across the below infographic and felt compelled to share. Remember that fitness is about your health. Another aspect outside of diet and exercise is the environment that you live in. I remember being in Beijing, China a number of years ago and coughing due to the air pollution there.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxgGo-igRs2LYHA1-CXSjmUHEoMkuU2muVORVluSGF12FZwlcAgzfP03hiOmdxAMOQSAUV1QcMgphWXuHOmTVKt3eeDGRGel5NuVUEKGBxJZwjCdQTAb_Aefxmb7qCMSHF6Sxc7wHsYkI/s1600/meat-charts_ap2_0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxgGo-igRs2LYHA1-CXSjmUHEoMkuU2muVORVluSGF12FZwlcAgzfP03hiOmdxAMOQSAUV1QcMgphWXuHOmTVKt3eeDGRGel5NuVUEKGBxJZwjCdQTAb_Aefxmb7qCMSHF6Sxc7wHsYkI/s1600/meat-charts_ap2_0.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On another note, keep in mind that Dairy production also has an impact on Carbon Dioxide emissions. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also if you are a glutton for punishment and/or like reading actual sciency stuff ( like me ), then here's a published study on <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/animals/dairy/nutrition/nutrition-and-feeding/diet-formulation-and-evaluation/carbon-methane-emissions-and-the-dairy-cow-1">agriculture and Carbon emissions done at Penn State</a>.</div><div><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-68136944971972055552014-07-21T18:03:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:13:43.955-08:00The importance of creativity in a new candidateOver the years I have had the chance to interview a number of people for new positions. I have interviewed potential Business Analysts, Developers, Software Architects, and Product Managers. In all of these cases, one of the main things that I look for is creativity.<br /><br />Creativity, in my opinion, is what separates the wheat from the chaff. In the case of a developer, he or she may know the language that the position predominantly requires. He or she may also have experience with the stack and frameworks that you are using, but there is a huge difference between someone who has experience with these things, and someone who can get creative with them.<br /><br />There are plenty of people who get caught in the trap of finding a way of doing something and then never finding a better way to accomplish that feat. They never to think why they are doing a thing a certain way and they just always do it that way because "That's the way it's done".<br /><br />The thing is if I am working with someone I want them to be questioning the status quo. Asking why can't we change things, and challenging not only they're assumptions but causing me to constantly challenge mine as well. By doing this you fuel team creativity and innovation.<br /><br />So how do you find people that fit this criteria. Personally I've been using the following question: "What can you do with a brick" (or a derivative thereof) as a starting point for years. I saw <a href="https://www.linkedin.com/today/post/article/20140716140432-7661497-what-can-you-do-with-a-brick?trk=li_li_corp_sandramiller_creativity&sf3793905=1">this post</a> on LinkedIn about it that pretty much nails it. It's amusing to see how it can completely catch some candidates off guard, and believe it or not apparently it can be very difficult for some people to answer. From there it depends on the position. For developers there are some coding exercises that can give you some insight into the thought processes, and usually asking or challenging them about there answers will give you further insight.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-12697397607421437262014-07-02T17:10:00.000-07:002014-07-03T08:35:17.623-07:00The Death of the Plasma TVWith the <a href="http://www.techspot.com/news/57301-samsung-to-cease-plasma-tv-production-later-this-year.html">announcement</a> by Samsung that they are pulling the plug on Plasma TVs, it is official the Plasma TV is now dead. The worst part of this for me is that I love my Plasmas. It is a sad reminder that it isn't always the best technology is the most successful.<br />
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I am barely old enough to remember the VHS/Betamax, but from everything I've read and everything I've heard the Betamax was simply the better product. The same, unfortunately can be said for Plasma TVs.<br />
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I was on vacation last week staying at a rental home. This home was equipped with a brand new top of the line Visio LED TV, and I found it difficult to watch. There was ghosting and strange artifacts that I never see on my TVs. Even the colors seemed overly saturated. Quite frankly it was part of the reason that I so successfully managed to take almost a full break from Technology (despite the World Cup's attempt to pull me back in)!<br />
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I understand that technologies die, but if Plasma has to die, then please TV manufacturers take heed: For the love of God fix the little glitches in LCD and LED TVs, especially before trying to sell me on new technology like 4K.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-74511105676998161822014-07-02T10:32:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:14:52.496-08:00Sweet Potato ChipsThis is quite possibly the easiest recipe in the world!<br /><br />I have a toddler who is a "Picky Eater" (This is actually a huge understatement. He will not eat anything that is not crunchy. This means all vegetables have to be dehydrated... Every. Single. One.).<br /><br />In order to have a quick snack on the go my wife and I came up with these.<br /><br />1 Large Sweet Potato<br /><br />Get out your helpful mandolin slicer, slice fairly thin until you have no sweet potato left. Pop into the dehydrator at 125 degrees overnight, and there you go, a quick snack to go.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-38702522352667473922014-07-02T10:08:00.000-07:002014-07-14T12:26:04.690-07:00Corporations claiming religious exemptionsI am all for religious tolerance and letting people believe what they want to believe, but quite honestly the most recent Supreme Court ruling regarding Hobby Lobby is ridiculous. Due to the Citizens United ruling, where Corporations were basically given free speech rights, and now we have a situation where Corporations can claim Religious Exemptions? What the hell is this world coming to?<br />
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What about the rights of the individuals who work for these companies? What about their right to make decisions? Corporations seem very quick to tell the Government to stay out of their decisions, but seem to have no problem essentially telling their employees that they are making decisions for them.</div>
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If Corporations want so badly to be considered People how about we start giving them the full extent of that. You know like if they're products kill someone the entire entity is seized by the Government and liquidated (You know like a corporate death penalty) instead of a semi meaningless fine (I'm looking at you GM)? </div>
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The reality is this all comes down to dollars and cents. If a company doesn't have to pay for something then they won't. If they can use a "religious exemption" to gain a competitive advantage over their competition they sure as hell are going to do that. That's capitalism, its how Corporations operate.</div>
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So since this all really comes down to their bottom lines I'm going to hit back the only way that I as an individual can. I will no longer support these companies with my dollars and cents. With that in mind I will be keeping an eye out for companies that are claiming this exemption and I will be boycotting them. I will keep an open list here. Please feel free to send me a comment of companies to add to the list.</div>
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<u>The List</u></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbylobby.com/home.cfm">Hobby Lobby</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.edenfoods.com/">Eden Foods</a><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25.600000381469727px;"><a href="http://www.tyndale.com/">Tyndale House</a></span><br />
<a href="http://www.freshwayfoods.com/">Freshway Foods</a><br />
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EDIT:<br />
There appears to be a hashtag about it on <a href="http://twitter.com/">Twitter</a> (<a class="underlink bluelink" href="http://twitter.com/search?q=%23boycottedenfoods" style="background-color: #fefefe; border: 0px none; color: #296bcc; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; outline: none;" tabindex="-1" target="_blank" title="#boycottedenfoods">#boycottedenfoods</a>)<br />
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Looks like there seems to be at least a little bit of action happening on this matter. Eden Foods appears to be suffering from a little <a href="http://grist.org/politics/eden-foods-hit-by-backlash-for-fighting-obamacares-contraception-mandate/?utm_source=syndication&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=feed">backlash</a>. However its important to note that until companies like <a href="http://wholefoods.com/">Whole Foods</a> and other retailers get involved this is not going to hit Eden Foods that hard.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-19202515827814414102013-09-23T07:26:00.002-07:002013-09-23T07:26:45.601-07:00iPhone 5S Fingerprint scanner hackedAm I surprised? Not really. Fingerprint scanning isn't new technology, and the knowledge of how to get around them has been around for a while. To be honest I'm kind of surprised that it took this long.<br />
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The reality is Fingerprint scanners have a few problems.<br />
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<li>You only have 10 fingers meaning you only have 10 possible options when choosing a "passkey", unless you decide to use your toes... or <a href="http://mashable.com/2013/09/23/lock-iphone-5s-nipples/">nipples</a>. Let's hope you don't have a enterprise security policy that requires you to regularly change your "passkey" without repeats, because you could eventually run out...</li>
<li>You tend to leave you fingerprints all over the place... I mean people sometimes leave their passwords written in weird places, but think of everything you touch during the day with your hands... </li>
<li>I don't know about you, but my finger prints are all over my screen. IT'S A TOUCH SCREEN. I mean seriously could I make it any easier?</li>
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So bottom line this "security feature", was never really about security. It was about the illusion of security. People like the idea of someone not being able to look at their phone, but most people are too lazy to set up a pin to enter after the "Swipe to Unlock". I mean entering a password? I just want to take a picture of my lunch for Instagram!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-29782790129363256712013-09-21T05:08:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:12:48.548-08:00The Importance of Keeping a Log<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ashgate.derby.sch.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Diary.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="299" src="http://www.ashgate.derby.sch.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Diary.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>There are times when working out can feel like a really big drag. That you aren't getting anywhere and that you have been doing this FOREVER with no results. The truth his you probably have been making progress, but you might not notice. This phenomenon happens all the time to people with kids (also pets, if you've had them since they were very young). You see your child (or pet) every day, and you don't really notice that they're getting bigger, and then all of a sudden they no longer fit where they used to, and you have the magic epiphany of: OMG he/she is getting so big! In fact this same phenomenon is often times why we don't notice that we are gaining weight until all of sudden that pair of jeans that we've had forever are "suddenly" way to snug! It's because of this phenomena that is absolutely vital that you keep track of your progress (or lack thereof).<br /><br />By jotting it down, you can actually see that you are indeed making progress, and that changes to your body are actually happening! Sure they may not be as fast as you like, but progress is progress, and that's the goal. It's a motivator, it keeps you from giving up when you feel like this whole thing isn't worth it. It simultaneously gives you data to make other changes to perhaps push yourself through a plateau!<br /><br />Plateau busting can be one of the most frustrating aspect of Muscle Building or Weight Loss. You get to a point where it just doesn't seem that you are getting anywhere. It can go on for days, weeks, even months! Keeping a log allows you to see things that may be causing your plateau. You can look back to when you stopped making gains or losses and see what perhaps might be causing that. Maybe you stopped doing an exercise. Maybe you started doing a little less or more time on the elliptical. Maybe you started eating a different kind of protein bar as a mid afternoon snack.<br /><br />Being able to take in this data, and synthesize it into useful information to help you get to your goals is the name of the game! Big companies use this all the time, they call it analytics! But in order to analyze why things may not be working as well as you'd like you need to keep your data somewhere, and you need to keep it in a consistent manner. You don't have to use anything fancy I used a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IDM7/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00006IDM7&linkCode=as2&tag=alexrwallacec-20">Mead Composition Book</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=alexrwallacec-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00006IDM7" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> for years! You can get a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3T4OHK/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00D3T4OHK&linkCode=as2&tag=alexrwallacec-20">5 Pack</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=alexrwallacec-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00D3T4OHK" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> of them here from Amazon for about $9.<br /><br />So keep a log, take as many measurement as consistently as you feel doing. Using data to drive your goals is the optimum way of achieving them.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-57962765516309196542013-09-20T16:05:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:12:48.565-08:00Break down your bigger goals<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://thirdcousinsmedia.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/GoalPic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://thirdcousinsmedia.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/GoalPic.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>If you want to lose weight one of the best ways to help is to break down your bigger goals into smaller ones. Losing, for example, twenty pounds is a big challenge! After all, in a healthy world you only really want to drop 1 to 3 pounds a week. That means twenty pounds should take about 10 weeks.<br /><div><br /></div><div>10 weeks is a long term goal. It sounds so achievable at the beginning. That 10 weeks seems so far away that you are very likely to "take it easy" because you "have plenty of time!" Four weeks later, when you have been very lax on yourself and if you are lucky you may have dropped a couple of pounds. But now you have 6 weeks to lose 18 pounds! That's on the upper end of healthy and now it's a very hard to achieve goal!</div><div><br /></div><div>So how should you break this down. Well it depends on you. I've found four week intervals to work the best. Four weeks is just long enough to give myself a little leeway for lapses in my goal, while simultaneously giving me the kick in the pants that I "ONLY" have a few weeks left! In addition it allows you to use another mind trick: the "<a href="http://veganfitness.alexrwallace.com/2013/09/mind-trick-i-can-do-it-for-x.html">I can do it for X</a>" mind trick, because after all it's only a month, you can be super strict for a month!</div><div><br /></div><div>By the time the end of that month rolls around hopefully you will be so well on your way to your big goal that you will just let it keep going! After all you already showed that you can be super strict for a month, and it wasn't so bad! So break up your big goals into incremental smaller ones. Gauge where you are when you get to that smaller one and adjust accordingly. Losing weight and keeping it off is a bunch of incremental changes over time! Going for the big bang is dooming you to failure before you even start.</div><div><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-81712064476949043802013-09-20T13:09:00.000-07:002013-09-20T13:27:20.776-07:00Breathing new life into Microsoft<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If you are to believe the media blitz, <a href="http://microsoft.com/">Microsoft</a> is on the ropes. They have just started a massive reorganization. Ballmer has agreed to retire, and they've bought Nokia. They seem to be trying to convince Wall Street that it can still be profitable. Personally I'm not really sure why this is in question. Microsoft is a big company with many fingers in many pots. They have a huge developer talent pool, and have produced some amazing things from their Research and Development department.Sure they are taking hits at the moment, especially to their sacred cash cows, but it doesn't mean that they are done.<br />
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People seem to forget just how much stuff runs on windows, and just how often some of those things get upgraded. Retailers, Governments and Financial Institutions hate spending money on replacing things that work, but guess what Windows XP is being killed. That means that these big entities who don't want to spend money upgrading, are being forced to. I guarantee that money isn't going to Linux, and it's probably not going into Windows 8, and that means Microsoft will get another chance to get an end of life boost in another couple of years.<br />
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In the meantime they are trying to consolidate their platform. Bringing mobile and desktop together. It's the right move, and they should definitely continue on that. Ballmer said he wishes that he'd put more talent into Windows Phone earlier. Well it's never to late! Get to it! Use some of your XBox pull, Apple and Google seem to be making plays at the gaming market, use what you have and try and beat them to the punch!<br />
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Microsoft does slowly seem to be adopting some of the strategies of Google and Apple which is a good thing! Buying Nokia had to happen and ultimately is a good idea. Keep in mind Google did the exact same thing with Motorola, and no one called it a desperation play! Understanding the pain points of an OEM I think will help them ultimately create a better product for other OEMs. It may also be time to think about not charging OEMs for Windows Phone OS, at least for this cycle. It would be a way to increase adoption of that OS by cheaper OEMs and get broader adoption. It also may be time to broaden the horizons of your own apps Microsoft.<br />
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Getting Office onto other devices NOW is absolutely vital! People know office, they understand it. To some extent the Ribbon is already touch capable. Release and Android version, release an iOS version! How many management folks really do not need a full laptop? Sure you may be cannibalizing some of your own market by no longer selling your OS, but the reality is that market is already being cannibalized by smaller start ups, Apple and Google Docs! They are trying to eat your lunch, and succeeding! I for one already tell my son to use Google Docs! He doesn't need all the fancy stuff that lives in office, but he does need to have access to it anywhere! If it helps your bottom line and time to market, make two versions, a light and a full featured!<br />
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As much as I love Open Source software (and Microsoft is a huge contributor to Open Source despite what you may think), something to keep in mind is that Microsoft makes great tools for business. Office is a VERY powerful tool, and Microsoft's developer tools are absolutely amazing. It really does amaze me how little fan fair Visual Studio gets. Hands down it is the best IDE (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Integrated_development_environment">Integrated Developer Environment</a>) I have EVER worked with, and they do an excellent job at improving it year after year. C# is a great coding language, and .NET a great framework. I love the fact that thanks to Microsoft and <a href="http://xamarin.com/">Xamarin</a> I can even use it in Linux, iOS and Android.<br />
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With all its irons in the fire, Microsoft has the ability to reorganize and be a strong competitor. I'm not sure they will ever reach the position they had in the 90s, but that doesn't mean they can't be in the thick of things, and it definitely doesn't mean they are down and out. Sure they've made some miscalculations, and missed some opportunities, but that's the great thing about the tech industry. Everything moves so fast today's underdog can be tomorrow's juggernaut, and if any industry has a history of recent turn arounds, its this one. Apple is one example and Yahoo seems to at least be on the path back.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-51926702623181340852013-09-20T12:48:00.000-07:002013-09-20T13:26:40.866-07:00Apple, iOS7, the new iPhone 5S and iPhone 5C and Innovation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Apple had been on a media blitz. With iOS7 being release yesterday, and the impending iPhone 5s and 5c onslaught, its been dominating tech news today. It seems they are trying to paint the picture that Jony Ive, Craig Federighi and Tim Cook are the happy awesome replacement for Steve Jobs as the head innovators of Apple. They may be able to pull it off, but I must say that some of the quotes that have been coming out of Apple have left me a little less than sure of this. I think Apple makes some beautiful products, but the reality is I'm not seeing the same swagger that I used to see at Apple during the years of Jobs. I am however seeing a lot of arrogance. Thats not to say that Jobs wasn't arrogant, but at least it seemed like he backed it up with some innovation.<br />
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I upgraded my iPad 2 and my sons iPhone to iOS7 last night, and played a little, and I can honestly say: meh. In all honesty, iOS needed a UI update. It's looked pretty much the same since 2007, it was getting dated. Now it looks like... well, I'll put it in the terms of my teenage son: "check it out, now it looks kinda like the [Samsung] Galaxy [S4]!" Ouch.<br />
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Now I don't want to take that quote out of context, he was thrilled, but as Apple, when your big UI update has you "catching up" to a phone released months ago, you may want to get to work on wowing us a little more next time. I think Apple can do it, clearly they've put a lot of thought into the underpinnings of the OS with things like moving to 64bit architecture etc, so there is definitely more to the update than just fancy UI elements. Speaking of other elements, how the hell did the lock screen vulnerability get past Apple? I can't imagine that would have ever flown with Jobs at the helm, especially with one of big features release on the iPhone 5s was a new security feature!!!!<br />
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Which brings me to the new iPhone. The lines are forming, but they usually do for new iDevices, because after all they are luxury "must have" item. Apple devices always have been sold at a premium. in 20 years I have never looked at an Apple device and thought of it as cheap. Even when the company was struggling in the 90s! That being said, Tim Cook taking shots at Android and the "cheap" market seemed strangely defensive to me. I mean by now you should know that Apple products aren't cheap. I'm still not sure what people expected out of the iPhone 5c. I certainly didn't expect a new $50 iPhone. I expected it to be cheaper than the iPhone 5s but where they priced it is about where I expected it. Realistically it's a way of cutting some of the costs of manufacturing the iPhone 5 to keep the margin on those devices where they were.<br />
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The iPhone 5C is simultaneously a way of taking trying to make a play on the used phone market. Right now the iPhone 5 starts at around $400 on eBay. While the iPhone 5c is a little pricier at $549 unlocked, you can guarantee that is new, works, and won't have any issues during activation! Alternatively you can buy it on contract with one of these new upgrade plans that the carriers are offering! That's where the brilliance of this move comes into play!<br />
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So I think rumors of Apple's demise might have been largely overplayed. They seem to be playing the media and marketing game better than anyone at the moment. Despite Tim Cook being defensive when it comes to talking about Android, Apple is still making the right moves for them. While I'd love to see some huge technological innovation from Apple, I just think in the mobile market were not going to see the level of innovation we've been used to over the last few years. I would have liked to see something more distinctly Apple in iOS7 rather than doing Android Apple Edition. I do believe that Apple is still Innovating, just maybe not in ways that we expected.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-44447269992371632362013-09-20T11:02:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:12:48.584-08:00Mind Trick: I can do it for "X"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20100309200552/starwars/images/d/d6/Cloud_Minds_SWGTCG.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20100309200552/starwars/images/d/d6/Cloud_Minds_SWGTCG.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>I REALLY used to dislike cardio. I mean I had a serious disdain for the whole activity, the intense sweat, the shortness of breath, the constant monotony of being on a machine. I tried to take it outside, and run, but I was big, the concrete pavement hurt my knees and I live in the Atlanta Metro area. The Atlanta Metro area has some SERIOUS air quality issues. Running outside at the wrong time made me feel like I had been sucking on a tail pipe. So I stuck to indoor equipment. The thing is most of the time I was ready to give up after about five minutes. That's when I discovered this little gem of a mind trick.<br /><br />I realized that every time I got on a piece of cardio equipment (usually a treadmill), I'd get to about 3 minutes and 30 seconds and want to get off. My head would be hurting, my knees began to whine, I was out of breath, the sweat started pouring from my brow, and my heart felt like it was going to explode out of my chest. In my head the cursing would begin. I would just tough it out, call myself a wuss. You know the typical macho crap that you see on all those workout posters. When I reached about 7 minutes miraculously my head would be clear, my knees didn't hurt, my heart and breath evened out and the sweat only bothered me a little.<br /><br />Now usually I'd only last another 7 minutes from that point and then cool down (I was almost 300 pounds at the time...), but I figured out something. If I could get past the initial 5-6 minutes I could do my cardio! I further went down the road of, its only 5 minutes! That's not so much! Anyone can do 5 minutes that's not so bad!<br /><br />Fast forward 10 years (or so) and I still use this trick today! I've run a half marathon using this trick. In fact I used it this morning! I was 45 minutes and 6 miles in to a run on the treadmill. I didn't want to do anymore. I was tired, and I could already taste my after workout refuel. But I said to myself, come on Alex, just do five more minutes. It's five minutes, that's not too much longer! I ended up doing that a few more times pushing myself to 9.5 miles over and hour and ten minutes! Maybe that's not super quick, but believe me its one of my better times!<br /><br />The best part about the trick is that it doesn't just work for exercise it works for your diet too! I did a juice fast a year or so ago. I used the same trick with the mindset of "It's only a week. I can do this for a week! It's not that long!", and you know what? It wasn't! I ended up doing it for two! So if you're dragging don't feel like exercising or sticking to your diet, just break it down to a tiny time frame. It will make it seem much more reachable and much less harsh.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-54118818494040944292013-09-19T11:53:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:12:48.601-08:00Gym Etiquette 101 or How not to be an Ass at the gymI know when you pay for a service you feel entitled to certain benefits, but here are a few things at the gym that I have PERSONALLY witnessed that I feel are just unacceptable behaviors. Bottom line is, everyone's time is valuable, and we are all trying to keep up our intensity. So let's be mindful of our fellow gym members.<br /><br /><h2 style="text-align: center;">Rack Your Weights</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://paulkimtrainer.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/messy-gym-with-weights-everywhere1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="http://paulkimtrainer.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/messy-gym-with-weights-everywhere1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">You would think this one would be self evident, but apparently some people feel that they work *SO* hard that picking up their weights after they're done is just too much. Or maybe they feel that the gym staff is there to pick up after them, like Mommy used to. Look if you don't want to pick up after yourself, please get a home gym. This is an area for all of us. We're all busy and we all get tired at the end of our sets if we're doing it right. Cleaning up after yourself is just common fucking courtesy.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: center;">Wipe Down Sweaty Equipment</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/7556665114_2e7b1ed477_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/7556665114_2e7b1ed477_z.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Do I really need to explain this one? I mean look I get tired after running for 10 miles too, and I sweat profusely! But you know who doesn't like to be covered in your sweat? Anyone else! So please take a moment and wipe up after yourself...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: center;">It's a Workout Buddy, not Workout Buddies</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://media4.onsugar.com/files/2011/12/48/4/192/1922729/67dc5b0d3db20737_workout-buddy-no-no.xxxlarge_0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://media4.onsugar.com/files/2011/12/48/4/192/1922729/67dc5b0d3db20737_workout-buddy-no-no.xxxlarge_0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>I guess I could understand three people doing a workout together, but anymore than that and split it the fuck up! I've seen 4 guys standing around a bench watching a fifth guy do a set. It just looks weird, creates a crowding around other (unused) equipment and quite frankly totally decreases the intensity you could otherwise create in your workout.</div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: center;">The Gym is not a Social Club</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://frugivoremag.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Screen-Shot-2012-06-12-at-6.45.59-AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="http://frugivoremag.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Screen-Shot-2012-06-12-at-6.45.59-AM.png" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">If your tongue is getting more of a workout than any other muscle, you are doing it wrong. It's perfectly fine to have gym friends or a workout partner, but the reality is that when you are on the gym floor you should be there to work! Not to be seen, heard or gossip... You can always chat AFTER your workout. Preferably off the floor in the locker room, in the lobby or outside.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: center;">Wear Proper Attire</h2><div>I'm not going to dignify this one with an image. You know what I'm talking about. Certain clothing just gets in the way, and certain clothing is literally worn just to scream "LOOK AT ME!" You should be there to work not make a fashion statement or "get noticed".</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: center;">Personal Hygiene</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.sneakerheadvc.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/blog-peter-stinky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.sneakerheadvc.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/blog-peter-stinky.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You are going to the gym. You are going to work hard. You are going to stink afterwards. But you know what lets try to minimize the offense to all of our olfactory senses and not go into the gym smelling like we just got out of a manure field. I'm not saying to take a shower before you go, but clean clothes and a couple of wet wipes go a long way.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-23302279388826939402013-09-19T08:24:00.000-07:002013-09-19T08:24:10.361-07:00The Economics of CollegeI have a teenager who is finishing up high school this year. Needless to say I have been paying VERY close attention to the costs and news associated with enrollment at college. So when I read/hear statistics like: between 1982 and 2007 the average income for families in the United States rose 147% while college costs grew <b>440%</b>, my ass puckers a little bit!<br />
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Do you realize that basically that means that the average cost of a four year degree from a state run school is nearly $14500 a year, and that's not going to include books, food, housing, computer, supplies and anything else that a college student is probably going to need! The worst part is that this is the bargain price!<br />
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What the hell is it that has made college prices skyrocket so much! Bare with me I have a theory, let me lay out some information and then I'll tie it together:<br />
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<li>The US Government backs all college loans, meaning anyone can get one, regardless of credit history. Making college achievable is a great good, and I don't totally argue with the US Government doing it.</li>
<li>You can't get rid of a college loan... ever. Bankruptcy will not allow you to rid yourself of this debt burden.</li>
<li>You are constantly pitched the benefits of a college degree. The higher earnings potential, and stable job.</li>
<li>4 Year colleges in 1982: 1957. 4 year colleges in 2009: 2774</li>
<li>Number of college students 1982: ~ 6 Million. Number of students 2013: ~21 million</li>
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So we have a ~40% more colleges, and ~250% more enrolled students between 1982 and 2013. Well from that statistic it certainly seems that demand may be outpacing supply, except I seriously doubt that any institution that was around in 1982 hasn't been growing. I mean Harvard has increased their undergraduate enrollment from 6000 students in 2000 to 7200 in 2013 or a 20% increase over the last 13 years, and that's one of the most prestigious schools in the country. I can only imagine that less prestigious schools with much smaller price tags and endowments have increased their enrollment sizes much more than that.</div>
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More importantly it seems that any student who wants to go to college seems to find a college to get into, thereby removing the argument that this whole cost increase is driven by supply and demand of students. But interestingly it does seem that there is a huge Supply of guaranteed money for colleges, and more importantly BANKS THAT SUPPLY LOANS!</div>
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We all know that when you get a loan for something the seller immediately gets the full amount of money they are asking for, and the buyer agrees to pay back the banker over time (with interest) in exchange for the lump sum. Financial Institutions are risk averse, they tend to want their money back. So they will only lend money if they feel they can reasonably get it back. The bigger the amount they lend the bigger the risk usually. This is why Jumbo Mortgage Loans (Loans over $500000) usually have a higher interest rate. They aren't guaranteed like smaller loans, and therefore lenders tend to err on the side of caution.</div>
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Well when you create a system that has NO UPPER LIMIT on the backing, and CAN NEVER BE DISCHARGED where's the risk for the lender? If there is no risk for the lender then why wouldn't they lend more money. That means that there is now a huge supply of money available to potential "customers of colleges" which means these colleges can charge more, because the market will bare it! </div>
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It's not that education has gotten better, or that the facilities have improved that much its simply that the pockets have gotten deeper. I can't blame private colleges for trying to grab as much as possible, but it does seem to be an endless cycle. Couple that with the fact that Public colleges are receiving less government resources that would at least put some downward pressure on college prices, and we are just going to continue on this ever upward trajectory. At least, until it bursts. And it will burst. Prices for a good can only go up so much before it comes crashing down due to a backlash or something displacing it. I know its too late to hope for prices going down for me with my teen, but I certainly hope this fixes itself before my toddler is ready for college. I can only imagine what the cost will be for him if they don't.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-75874039946635834162013-09-19T03:00:00.000-07:002013-09-19T03:00:03.346-07:00Fantasy Football: Taking it a bit to farI'm a huge Professional American Football Fan (NFL). In fact, I think its the only sport that I will actively carve out time to watch in a week (and even then it's usually after the game is over so I can fast forward through the commercials). I've seen the rise of Fantasy Football, and I've seen and heard the pools around the office, but it always seemed a little odd to me. I mean in theory you could be rooting for both your team and the other team at the same time... But then again, who am I to judge, I played Dungeons and Dragons, and probably still would if I had the time. Lately though I've noticed an odd phenomenon. It seems that people are taking to Social Media and quite frankly being total douche wads to some of these professional athletes.<br />
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The hate and vitriol thrown at these athletes is unreal. These are men who, as a general rule bust their asses day in and day out. Their training regimens would make most of the rest of us want to curl up into a little ball and die (though being the masochist I am, I would love the chance to try to keep up for a week :-)). Some of the hits and blows that they take would cause most of us to break down and cry for our mommies. And they do all this in the name of entertainment.<br />
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That's right, they play a game for us to spectate and enjoy. They spend their week rehabbing and training, and working until they puke. All so they put their lives and their health on the line for three hours a week. Yet some people have the audacity to question these men's manhood and their toughness? Really?<br />
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I understand that they are getting paid more money in a year than most people will see in their lifetimes. I get that some people think that justifies the hatred when these players say they are injured. But in game where their livelihood, and in some cases the only job they have ever worked or known, is always at risk on the next play, couldn't that pay be justified?<br />
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These men have spent years dedicated to mastering their craft, they are the pinnacle of Football perfection. Demeaning them because your Fantasy Football team is suffering is just pitiful. If you are losing money because you decided to bet on Fantasy Football, that's your fault, not theirs. As the old saying goes, don't gamble what you can't afford to lose.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3050447570835882614.post-63595603917837347172013-09-18T19:01:00.000-07:002017-02-27T07:12:48.617-08:00Use Little Tricks to Push YouI use an app on my phone called <a href="http://fitocracy.com/">Fitocracy</a> (<a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/fitocracy-fitness-tracker/id509253726?mt=8">Fitocracy on iTunes</a> / <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fitocracy.app&hl=en">Fitocracy on Android </a>) to keep track of my workouts. It's not the best tool for this function but it does have on interesting feature that I love. They use the concept of points to rank your workout. After you achieve a certain number of points you "level up".<br /><br />If you have ever played a video games with levels then you know just how addictive it can be to "level up". I played EverQuest (You know, before World of Warcraft even existed!) for years, and the time trap you would find yourself in was just trying to get to the next level, or to get the next piece of gear.<br /><br />So why does this help with your workout? Let me give you an example. I was exhausted this morning. The day hadn't started right, I didn't have headphones, and it took me longer to get to the gym than expected. I plowed through a pretty decent workout, but I was going to skip my after weights run. So i entered what I'd done into Fitocracy, and lo and behold I'm 94 points short of a level.<br /><br />I looked at it for a second and said well fuck, I guess I'll get that tomorrow. I walked ten feet, and said to myself damn it! Its 94 points! I can get that with one more hard set of exercise. So I turned my ass around and worked a little bit more. It was a little trick, but it caused me to push myself just a little further and get me closer to my goal just when I needed the inspiration the most. If I'd worked myself hard enough I would have been satisfied, but I hadn't, so I wasn't and that little 94 point reminder gave me the push I needed today.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00166863868451280471noreply@blogger.com2